The journal
Stories worth collecting.
Pieces written for this site about the country, its regions and what travelling there is actually like. Every one carries the date it was published.
Story
Why Romania Feels Different
A Romance language in a Slavic neighbourhood, three regions that were separate for centuries, and a mountain range through the middle of it all.
Design
The Art of Romanian Craft
Pottery from Horezu, gates and churches cut from oak in Maramures, and the reason so much of it is still made rather than remembered.
Journeys
A Winter in the Carpathians
What the mountains are actually like between December and March, and why the access road matters more than the accommodation.
Culture
Notes from Transylvania
Fortified churches, Saxon villages and a region that has been multilingual for eight hundred years.
City guide
48 Hours in Bucharest
A city of very large gestures and very small streets, and how to see both without spending the weekend in traffic.